Bramstone Lodge

Thursday: Drive from Durbin to Bramstone Lodge in the Stormberg Mountains

The B&B industry is very developed in South Africa. It is the preferred lodging of South African business travelers and vacationers. We were met by a very nice and polite man that someone how remembered all of our names instantly. We were shown to our rooms. It was nice and cool outside. I cracked the window and went to sleep. We were up at 7:00 AM. A fabulous formal breakfast had been prepared for us on the outside patio. The surroundings of the B&B were a tropical paradise – green plants and flowers, birds, a brook, and waterfalls. Only Mr. Rourke and Tattoo were missing. All of the residential and lower story commercial buildings in South Africa (and most of sub-Sahara Africa) are constructed of masonry- stone, brick, concrete blocks, poured walls, adobe, etc. Termites. Wood doesn’t last. Plus the thermal mass of the buildings help regulate the temperature.

We got one the road by 9:00 AM. One Land Cruiser, a small cargo trailer, 3 hunters, 3 PH’s, and one tracker – 5 seats in the Land Cruiser. I was the lucky one, I got to ride in the front passenger seat the whole time. Bob and JR were in the rear seat with a third PH. The PH’s alternated between driving, riding in the backseat, and riding in the bed with Tommy.

We headed down the coast for 30 miles and then turned north. We had been in Natal, but were entering the Eastern Cape. The land we encountered for the first 2 hours or so was farm and timber land. Lots and lots of timber. The trees weren’t planted like they are here in the U.S. They were to orderly, to planned, it didn’t look natural up close. We continued to drive. We stopped for a long break at a gas station. We had several fried pies, drinks, a bathroom break, and filled-up on diesel. We started into the Transgy. Literally translated to mean "This Side".

The Transgy is probably the most fertile area of Africa, but it is wasted. During the Apartheid era many blacks were moved here, much like the American Indians were moved to reservations during the 19th century. However, Black South Africans are subsistence farmers at best. The land that was once a bread basket run by White Farmers is now almost a moonscape. We drove thru this area for nearly 7 hours. Through small road side towns, almost shanty towns. The wealth you see in Johannesburg, along the coast, and on the lands of the White Farmers is not here. This looks like the Africa we see on TV. Amidst all of this are 3 things competing for the little financial resources that the people have: Vodafone cellphone stores, lotto tickets, and funeral parlors – for the AIDs victims. The next time I am in Africa I will not drive thru this area, but fly. We wanted to see what it was like. Once is enough. It is quite depressing.

With about an hour left in our drive we started into the Stormberg Mountains. The land changes. Again you see beauty and few people. The lands are owned by generations old European immigrants. We started climbing through the hills a bit and came into a large valley surrounded by mountains – the hunting area for Stormberg Elangeni Safaris – over 300K acres of land including their family lands (Justin, Jeff, and Robbie Stretton) and those of their neighbors. The mountains surrounded rolling plains. It looked like Montana and parts of the Dakotas. It was like we entered a totally different world. The snow from the day before was gone. We drove to Bramstone Lodge.

Stormberg Mountains

Bramstone Lodge reminded me of a cross between a lodge in the Rockies and an old European hunting lodge. Very rustic, very simple. It’s located near the base of the mountains and sets on a mountain fed stream, full of trout. Trees were planted generations ago create an oasis around the lodge on the plains. Game birds were in abundance, over 30 species. It was obvious that "The Crown" was here many generations ago. It was incredibly beautiful and relaxing. It was also getting cold. Our baggage was unloaded and we were shown to our rooms. I loved this place. One story, stone, thick walls, white, green metal roof, animal mounts and rugs everywhere. It feels like you belong here. Oh how I hoped places like these remain in some parts of Africa for generations to come and are not pillaged like what has happened in Zimbabwe.

Bramstone Lodge

Main Hall

View from Lodge Grounds

View from Lodge Grounds

After freshening up in our rooms we were treated to a feast of a dinner in a formal dining room. Donald Trumph could only wish for surroundings and food as luxurious and savory. Roger, Carol, and Aaron met up with us here. Robbie Stretton, Justin and Jeff’s cousin, joined us for dinner as well. Two of their wives attended as well, while the third stayed back and watched the kids. The company was as fabulous as the dinner. For some reason I was the guest of honor, I guess because I shot the big Buff two days earlier.

After dinner we retired to the bar and living room. There was no heat in the main areas (only space heaters in the bathrooms). We warmed ourselves by the fire, flanked by a Waterbuck on one side and a Kudu on the other. I got to treat everyone to a special dessert, Guinness milkshakes. I had talked about them earlier in the trip. One of the wives was kind enough to find a bottle store (liquor store in Africa) that carried Guinness. I made a batch at the bar by hand and distributed the drinks to everyone. They loved it. They couldn’t believe they tasted so good. Now only if my lame ass hunting buddies back home would step up and try it.

Dining Room

Den